process - fabrication   1
fabrication pages:
p2    p3

Follow the steps of the fabrication process on these pages.

First is the design done on the computer which allows us to view all the various dimensions and how they work together.  The program provides exact measurements for setting up the fixture and mitering the tubes.

 

Here, I've got the numbers on the clipboard and am setting up the frame fixture for this build.

The bottom bracket shell is cleaned, the vent holes are put in, and it gets a serial name stamped in.

A head tube is parted off on the lathe, then the ends squared and chamfered.

 

The head tube gets vent hols drilled using the milling machine.
Tubes for the front triangle are inspected for straightness by rolling them across the granite surface plate, which is flat to within 0.0005", and that's FLAT!
Held in the vise is a stainless bar with a steel ball welded onto it.  The dial indicator contacts the ball, and when a tube is slid across the surface of the ball and under the needle of the dial indicator I can measure the lengths of the butts (thick parts of the tubing ends) to see where they end and plan miters.

Rough cuts are done with a hacksaw to size the tubes for mitering on the machine.

 

Next the main triangle tubes are mitered (rounded cuts to match the tubes they will join to) on the milling machine using an Anvil fixture which is mounted on a rotary table that can be easily adjusted to precise angles.

After machine mitering they come out with rough edges that need to be taken down with a file, or the scotchbrite wheel. 

After the tubes for the front triangle have been mitered and deburred I fit them up in the frame fixture and mark where I want the water bottles to be located.  The tubes come back out of the fixture and holes are drilled for water bottle bosses using the milling machine.

After drilling tubes,bottle bosses, and cable stops are cleaned and fluxed for silver brazing.
In the background are the down tube and seat tube with bottle bosses, and in the foreground is the top tube with two brake cable stops held in place in line with each other by a cool tool made by Sputnik tools.

Hot Hot Jabanero!

Actually, not that hot - this is considered "low temperature" silver brazing, as the addition of silver makes the filler rod that will be added as soon as we get up to temp, melt at a lower temperature than brass.  This is a good thing for the thin section of the tube, but still hot enough that I burn myself grabbing stuff before remembering it was just under the flame a minute ago.... 

 

What you didn't see (since I don't have that many hands I couldn't take the picture) is the addition of the filler rod.  Here the silver-brazing has been done and there is a icy looking crust of flux on the joints which has protected it from contamination.  A soak in hot water removes the flux.

I like to get the braze-ons done before joining the front triangle, so that any heat distortion does not affect the alignment of the frame.

Next the seat tube is welded to the BB.  First the miter is checked and adjusted if needed, then tack welded in the fixture, then alignment checked, then welded, then checked again.

The tubes go back into the fixture. Miters are checked and refined as needed to fit just right.  When it's all good to go, the tubes come out and get cleaned for welding.  They go right back into the fixture and each joint gets tack welded.  A tack weld is a very small weld used to hold the joint in place, not so much welding as to cause distortion.

continue on fabrication page 2          top      main

fabrication pages:
p2   p3

 
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